Omega Speedmaster Leather Strap: 20mm Picks That Fit
The best Omega Speedmaster leather strap is 20 mm wide at the lugs and tapers to 18 or 16 mm at the buckle. On the Moonwatch, a perforated rally strap, brown waxed cowhide or navy calfskin covers sporty, casual and dressy days. At XILUGS, each one is cut by hand and made to order in our Ha Noi workshop.
What size strap does a Speedmaster need?
The current Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional has a 42 mm case, a 20 mm lug width and a lug-to-lug length of about 47.2 mm, according to the Worn & Wound hands-on review. So the strap you want is 20 mm where it meets the case.
Other Speedmaster lines and older references can differ, so check the number engraved between the lugs or measure the gap with a ruler before you order. The second number matters just as much: the width at the buckle. Pick the taper that suits your wrist:
- 20/20 mm: no taper, for the sportiest, most solid look.
- 20/18 mm: a gentle taper and the most common choice for a Moonwatch.
- 20/16 mm: a strong taper that feels lighter on smaller wrists.
Which length fits your wrist?
Length is the other half of the size, written as long end over short end. Measure your wrist just above the bone with a soft tape, snug but not tight, then match it to the chart:
- 15.6 to 16.5 cm wrist (about 6.1 to 6.5 in): 115/70 mm.
- 16.6 to 17.5 cm wrist (about 6.5 to 6.9 in): 115/75 mm.
- 17.6 to 18.5 cm wrist (about 6.9 to 7.3 in): 125/75 mm.
The chart suggests one size shorter for watches over 44 mm, so the 42 mm Moonwatch needs no adjustment. If you like a loose fit, go one size longer. Our step-by-step measuring guide covers the tape and paper-strip methods.
Padded or flat on a Speedmaster?
The Moonwatch is a mid-size sports chronograph, so both profiles work. Go Flat if the watch lives under a shirt cuff and you want it to sit low. Go Padded Domed if you want the strap to match the tool-watch character of the case, with a gentle rise down the middle. Unsure? Flat is the safer first strap, because it works under a cuff and on a weekend.
Padded Square and Padded Full are also on the builder, but on a 42 mm case they can look heavy unless your wrist is large. Our guide to padded vs flat straps by case thickness compares every profile side by side.
Which leather suits the Speedmaster?
The Speedmaster has a black dial, a tachymeter bezel and white markings, so it pairs easily with most colors. The leather decides whether it reads as racing, casual or formal:
| Leather | Look | Taper |
|---|---|---|
| Epsom rally | Motorsport | 20/18 mm |
| Waxed cowhide | Vintage, relaxed | 20/18 mm |
| Babele calf | Smart casual | 20/16 mm |
| Alligator | Dressy, evening | 20/16 mm |
| Patina | Warm, hand-dyed | 20/18 mm |
Epsom is firm and holds its shape on daily wear. Waxed cowhide lightens where it bends, so it ages along with the watch. Babele is a smooth calfskin with a fine, even surface that keeps the strap looking neat in an office. Every XILUGS Signature Patina strap is dyed by hand, which means no two shades match exactly.
Is a rally strap the classic Speedmaster look?
For many owners, yes. The tachymeter bezel points to motorsport, and a perforated rally strap is the clearest way to lean into that. The holes add a little airflow, and contrast stitching picks up the white hands and markers on the dial.
Black with white holes is the safest match for a standard black-dial Moonwatch. Yellow, blue or red details work best when they echo something on the watch, such as a colored hand. A few pairings that work on the Speedmaster:
- Black with white holes: the quiet, classic match for a black dial.
- Black with yellow or blue holes: echoes colored hands or a racing dial.
- Navy with orange holes: softer than black, still clearly sporty.
Our rally watch strap collection shows every mix of base color, hole color and stitching, each cut to your chosen taper and length before it is stitched.
How do you dress a Speedmaster up?
Brown is the easiest way to make the Speedmaster feel less technical. Waxed cowhide has a slightly rough, oiled surface with a relaxed, vintage feel that suits a steel chronograph.
Navy is the quiet alternative. On a black dial it reads almost black indoors and shows its color in daylight, which makes it a good office strap. For weddings and evenings, alligator turns the watch into a dressier piece, and a chocolate tone looks warmer than black.
Alligator shipped to the United States travels with CITES export paperwork, as the US Fish & Wildlife Service CITES page explains. Ask us about the documents before you order, and read our alligator strap guide for scales, finishes and fit.
Which buckle and spring bars should you choose?
A silver Classic buckle matches the steel case. Pre-V and butterfly options suit owners who want a different look or a folding closure, and our guide to the four watch strap buckle types shows how each one closes. You can also pick regular or quick-release spring bars for each strap, so you can swap between a rally strap and a brown one without a tool.
- Classic buckle: the simplest match for a steel case.
- Butterfly clasp: +$10, a folding clasp in place of the pin buckle.
- Quick-release bars: handy if you rotate several straps through the week.
Own more than one 20 mm watch? Our Hamilton Khaki Field strap guide shows which of these straps carry over to a field watch.
FAQ
What lug width does the Omega Speedmaster use?
The current Moonwatch Professional uses 20 mm. Some other Speedmaster models and older references differ, so measure between the lugs before ordering.
Should I choose 20/18 or 20/16 mm?
Choose 20/18 for a balanced, sporty look. Choose 20/16 if you prefer a strong taper or if your wrist is on the smaller side.
Will a padded strap fit the Speedmaster?
Yes, Padded Domed suits the case well. If your spring bars sit close to the case, send us a photo and we will confirm the fit before cutting.
Can I add engraving?
Yes. Free engraving of up to 12 characters goes on the lining, a nice touch for a gift, and our gift guide for watch lovers has more ideas. Engraved straps are made for one person, so they are not returnable unless faulty.
Can I switch back to the Omega bracelet?
Yes. Keep the bracelet and its original spring bars in a safe place. Our strap arrives with its own bars already fitted, so switching back takes a few minutes.
How long does a Speedmaster strap take?
Each strap is made in 3–5 business days by one artisan, and the hand stitching alone takes about an hour. US shipping is a flat $5.99 and takes 10–12 days.
Straps we would put on a Moonwatch
Each of these can be ordered in 20/18 or 20/16 mm, in the profile and length you choose:
- Black Epsom rally strap, white holes — from $75: the classic racing match for a black dial.
- Brown waxed cowhide, flat profile — from $69: vintage, casual and easy to wear.
- Flat navy Babele calfskin strap — from $69: smart and understated.
- Flat chocolate alligator strap, from $115: for dress occasions.
Want a different color, hole pattern or stitch? Build your own Speedmaster strap online from $69, or browse our waxed cowhide straps. Check your wrist and lug width in the watch strap size guide before you order.
